News

Sometimes customers come to us with beautifully complex ideas, designs based on special locations they have been to, or elements that have been calling to them. We love the art form of mokume and its vast possibilities in both palette and pattern.  Arn especially loves to make exquisitely custom and exploratory work that would be impossible to recreate, making the ring even fully of an object d’ art. When the visions our clients have in mind for their rings fall outside of our stocked palette and pattern options, we create custom billets.  This is an opportunity to personalize the design even further to their individual tastes. 

The Billet

What’s a billet? A billet is the material that we create to make the rings from. It is layered precious metals bonded by a meticulous process of heat and pressure. Some makers of mokume purchase mokume billets from an outside source, but we make them from scratch, which allows for the greatest range of custom options. The sky's the limit and our craft inhabits the highest realm of making.

Why Custom?

Mokume by nature is inherently wild, we find this is key to the beauty of this art form, no two rings are ever going to be exactly alike, by both the nature of handmade work and of mokume gane itself. 

With this in mind, variations in the appearance of our designs are to be expected, especially with the color palettes. So many elements affect this, of course the patterns, but also the size and width of the ring. For clients with a strong preference regarding the look of the colors (which metal color or type is most dominant in the rings, the thicknesses of the various layers), a custom billet can be a great option.

Custom billets do come with added cost  and sometimes wait time, and we wanted to take you through the process to show the diligent and detailed work that goes into them. Each custom billet is assembled from scratch and created specifically to order.

The Process

We thought we might explain the process of making the custom billet so that our clients can see what goes into this endeavor. 

1. Determining and ordering the metals - this begins during the design consultation process, choosing the metals and proportions, and then special ordering the necessary material.

2. Cutting the metal sheets to size - the metals arrive in thin sheets, and are cut down to the correct measurements to be made into a billet.

3. Cleaning the sheets - each piece of metal is carefully cleaned (this is essential for bonding the metals). 

4. Pressing the billet - the sheets are stacked and pressed with the hydraulic press to create an initial bond.

5. Binding the billet - the billet is held together with binding wire to keep everything in place while firing.

6. Firing the billet - the billet is either torched or fired in the kiln.

7. Hot pressing the billet - straight from firing, still hot, the billet is pressed again in the hydraulic press.

8. Trimming the billet - the very edges of the billet are trimmed off to make everything perfectly square again.

9. Rolling and forging the billet to stock dimensions - the billet is gradually worked and shaped down to ring stock (it starts to resemble a long stick rather than a brick) so it’s at the correct dimensions to be made into a ring!

Making custom mokume pieces is always a labor intensive and demanding process, but we truly love the work and the opportunity to share this amazing craft with others.

Beginning your search for the perfect engagement ring can seem as daunting as it is exciting at the start. With so many designs, cuts, and stones to choose from, the options are limitless, especially if you’re wanting something unique like a mokume ring! We’re here to help you navigate and find the perfect design. 

The Rise of Unique Engagement Rings

Unique engagement rings are a testament to individuality and personal style. They stand apart from traditional designs, offering a sense of creativity and personal connection. Whether it's an unusual gem stone, band shape, setting style or a combination of several of these elements, your ring should tell a story—your story.

The Significance of the Gemstone

A central element of any engagement ring is the gemstone. While diamonds are timeless, exploring unique stones for engagement rings can offer a new twist. Consider the symbolism of different gemstones:

• Ruby: With its deep red hue, it represents passion and love and strength.

• Sapphire: Often associated with wisdom, virtue, and protection.

• Moissanite: Known for its’ intense  sparkle, an affordable alternative to diamonds.

Sapphires can especially be a fantastic choice for engagement rings if you’re looking for a colored stone. At a 9 on the Mohs Scale (second only to diamonds), it’s a strong stone that will hold up well to daily wear. And sapphires come in so many different varieties!

Unique Diamonds

If you’d like to go the diamond route but are looking for something less traditional, there are many options! Black diamonds are inky and opaque creating a dark and moody feel, salt and pepper diamonds have naturally occurring speckles and quirks, or raw diamond crystals combine rustic with elegant. And all of these aesthetically organic styles pair beautifully with a handcrafted mokume gane ring.

Vintage and Contemporary Inspirations

Unique vintage engagement rings evoke a sense of nostalgia and depth. These rings often feature intricate detailing and craftsmanship that are hard to find in modern designs. On the other hand, contemporary unique engagement rings embrace modernity, with sleek lines and streamlined shapes. Our work embraces both traditional quality craftsmanship and techniques, paired with innovative and modern design. 

Materials and Craftsmanship

The choice of metal can significantly influence the ring's appearance. Gold engagement rings, whether white, yellow, or rose, provide different aesthetics and can complement the chosen gemstone beautifully.

Unique handmade engagement rings possess a charm that mass-produced items lack. The meticulous attention to detail and craftsmanship ensure each piece is a work of art, reflecting the artisan's skill and the wearer's personality.

When choosing an engagement ring, consider practical aspects such as durability and comfort. Unique engagement ring designs should not only draw you in with their beauty but also withstand daily wear. Gemstone choice is especially important here, as many beautiful stones can be too soft or delicate for the regular wear that a ring takes on. We highly recommend diamonds, sapphires and moissanites. 

Engravings and Personal Touches

Personalizing the ring with engravings adds sentimental value. Common engravings include significant dates, initials, or meaningful quotes. The question of what to engrave in a ring is personal, and the options are endless.

Mokume gane also offers additional customizations, as there are many patterns and visuals to choose from. Find what speaks to you! Are there certain patterns that remind you of you or your partner, your story, your relationship?

Crafting Your Love Story

In conclusion, finding the perfect unique engagement ring is about more than just selecting a beautiful piece of jewelry. It's about crafting a symbol of love that is as unique as the relationship it represents. From simple and classic to complex and completely custom, the options are vast and varied. Enjoy the process and choose a ring that resonates with your personal story. 

Your engagement ring is more than a piece of jewelry—it's a reflection of the life you are building. Let it be as unique and beautiful as your love story.

We recently wrote a blog about mokume and damascus and it seemed to garner a lot of interest. We thought we should delve in deeper to give you more on this topic that so many are interested in.

In the world of jewelry design, two techniques stand out for their historical significance and unique aesthetic appeal: Damascus steel and Mokume Gane. These metalworking methods are celebrated art forms that have captivated artisans and enthusiasts alike for centuries. Both techniques offer an intriguing blend of tradition and innovation, representing the pinnacle of craftsmanship in their respective cultures. This article delves into the intricate processes behind these techniques and their applications in creating distinctive jewelry pieces, exploring how they continue to inspire modern artists.

Understanding Damascus Steel

Damascus steel, renowned for its strength and distinctive water-like pattern, has a storied history that dates back to the blades of ancient Syria. This steel was reputed for its ability to maintain a sharp edge, making it highly prized for weaponry. The allure of Damascus steel goes beyond its functional properties; it embodies a mysterious elegance that has intrigued historians and metallurgists for centuries. But what exactly is Damascus steel, and how is it created?

The Chemistry and Craftsmanship

Damascus steel is essentially a pattern-welded steel, crafted by forging together multiple layers of different steel types. This process creates the distinctive patterns that Damascus steel is known for, reminiscent of flowing water or wood grain. The manipulation of the steel's carbon content, alongside meticulous folding and forging techniques, produces the characteristic swirls and motifs that define its beauty.

The process begins with stacking alternating layers of high-carbon and low-carbon steel, which are then heated and hammered together. The repeated folding and welding of these layers create the intricate patterns, with the number of layers dictating the complexity of the design. This labor-intensive process requires both skill and precision, ensuring that the final product is not only visually stunning but also structurally sound. Modern advancements have introduced new alloys and techniques, allowing artisans to further refine and experiment with the patterns, pushing the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship.

Applications in Modern Jewelry

While Damascus steel was historically used for weaponry, its aesthetic qualities have made it a popular choice for jewelry designers. The unique patterns of Damascus steel rings, particularly men's wedding bands, offer a blend of tradition and contemporary style. These rings often feature an oxidized stainless steel liner interior, providing a modern twist to the ancient metalworking technique and ensuring comfort and durability.

In addition to rings, Damascus steel is also used in crafting bracelets, pendants, and cufflinks, each piece showcasing the intricate patterns that define this material. The versatility of Damascus steel allows for a wide range of designs, from bold and masculine to delicate and feminine. As artisans continue to explore new ways to incorporate this material into jewelry, Damascus steel remains a timeless choice for those seeking pieces that are both durable and visually captivating.

The Art of Mokume Gane

Mokume Gane, literally translating to "wood grain metal" in Japanese, is another metalworking technique that has captured the imagination of artisans. Developed in 17th century Japan, Mokume Gane was originally used to adorn samurai swords, adding a decorative element that reflected the warrior's status and taste. Today, it is cherished for its intricate patterns that resemble the rich textures of wood grain, making it a favored choice for creating unique and personalized jewelry pieces.

The Technique and Aesthetic

The creation of Mokume Gane involves the layering of different colored metals, such as gold, silver, and copper. These metals are then bonded together using heat and pressure, without the use of solder, a technique known as diffusion bonding. Once bonded, the billet is carved, twisted, and manipulated to reveal the underlying layers, resulting in a stunning pattern that varies with each piece, creating a visual tapestry that is both complex and harmonious.

The beauty of Mokume Gane lies in its unpredictability; no two pieces are alike, making each creation a unique work of art. This characteristic makes Mokume Gane rings, particularly unique wedding rings and engagement rings, highly sought after. The technique allows for the creation of truly one-of-a-kind pieces, often enhanced with additional elements such as a bezel ring setting or a raw gold ring blank liner. The ability to customize the color and pattern of each piece ensures that Mokume Gane jewelry resonates with personal style and sentiment.

Incorporating Mokume Gane in Jewelry

Jewelry designers have embraced Mokume Gane for its versatility and aesthetic appeal, crafting pieces that range from traditional to avant-garde. From unique vintage engagement rings to modern men's platinum wedding rings, Mokume Gane offers a distinctive alternative to traditional metal choices. Its ability to be combined with other metals, such as tantalum or black zirconium, further enhances its appeal, allowing for endless customization options and creative expression.

The adaptability of Mokume Gane enables designers to experiment with various forms and settings, incorporating gemstones and other embellishments to enhance the visual impact. Whether used in intricate earrings, bold statement necklaces, or minimalist bracelets, Mokume Gane brings a touch of artistry and sophistication to any jewelry collection. As the popularity of this technique continues to grow, it remains a testament to the enduring appeal of traditional craftsmanship infused with modern innovation.

The Intersection of Art and Science

Both Damascus steel and Mokume Gane exemplify the intersection of art and science in jewelry design. The meticulous processes involved in creating these pieces require a deep understanding of metallurgy and an artistic vision to bring the patterns to life. This fusion of technical skill and creative expression highlights the unique relationship between artisan and material, where each piece is a reflection of both historical tradition and personal artistry.

The Role of Technology

Advancements in technology have facilitated the creation of more complex and refined patterns in both Damascus steel and Mokume Gane. Modern tools and techniques allow artisans to experiment with new methods, leading to innovative designs that push the boundaries of traditional metalworking. Despite these advancements, the core principles of these techniques remain rooted in centuries-old practices, preserving their historical significance while embracing the possibilities of contemporary craftsmanship.

Digital design software and precision machinery enable artisans to visualize and execute intricate patterns with greater accuracy and consistency. This technological integration not only enhances the quality and complexity of the pieces but also allows for greater experimentation and creativity. As technology continues to evolve, it will undoubtedly inspire new interpretations and applications of these ancient techniques, ensuring their relevance and allure for future generations.

Cultural Significance

The cultural heritage associated with Damascus steel and Mokume Gane adds an additional layer of depth to their appeal. These techniques not only represent the pinnacle of craftsmanship but also serve as a testament to the rich histories of their respective cultures. For instance, Mokume Gane's connection to Japanese jewelry and the art of sword-making highlights its importance in traditional Japanese culture, symbolizing both beauty and resilience.

Similarly, Damascus steel's historical significance as a material for weaponry speaks to its role in shaping the cultural narratives of the regions where it was produced. The enduring allure of these techniques lies in their ability to connect us with the past, while offering a tangible expression of cultural identity and artistic heritage. As collectors and enthusiasts continue to explore these art forms, they celebrate not only the beauty of the materials but also the stories and traditions they embody.

When selecting jewelry that features Damascus steel or Mokume Gane, consider the unique qualities that each technique offers. Whether you're drawn to the intricate patterns of Damascus steel or the organic beauty of Mokume Gane, these pieces offer a timeless elegance that transcends trends. Understanding the nuances of each technique can enhance your appreciation for the artistry involved and guide you in choosing a piece that resonates with your personal style.

Customization and Personalization

One of the greatest advantages of these techniques is their adaptability. Whether you're looking for a men's gold wedding band, a women's unique engagement ring, or a platinum ring wedding band, both Damascus steel and Mokume Gane can be tailored to suit individual preferences. The addition of birthstones, such as a pink birthstone for a personalized touch, further enhances the uniqueness of each piece, allowing you to create a meaningful and customized piece that reflects your story.

Customization options extend beyond the choice of materials and patterns to include specific design elements, such as engravings or the integration of personal symbols. This level of personalization ensures that each piece is not only a work of art but also a cherished memento that holds sentimental value. As you explore the possibilities, consider how these elements can be combined to create a piece that is truly one-of-a-kind.

Understanding the Materials

When considering a purchase, it's also important to understand the materials involved. For example, knowing what tantalum is and its properties can inform your decision when choosing a wedding band. Tantalum, known for its durability and hypoallergenic properties, is an excellent choice for those seeking a modern and robust material. Similarly, exploring the different colors of gold and their meanings can add sentimental value to your selection, allowing you to choose a hue that resonates with personal significance.

Familiarizing yourself with the characteristics of each material, such as weight, color, and care requirements, can help you make an informed decision that aligns with your lifestyle and preferences. Whether you prefer the warm tones of rose gold or the cool elegance of platinum, understanding these nuances will enhance your appreciation for the craftsmanship and artistry behind each piece.

The art and science of Damascus steel and Mokume Gane offer a captivating exploration into the world of jewelry design. These techniques, steeped in history and tradition, continue to inspire modern artisans to create pieces that are as functional as they are beautiful. By blending ancient craftsmanship with contemporary innovation, these art forms remain relevant and cherished in today's jewelry market.

Whether you're drawn to the robust elegance of a Damascus steel ring or the ethereal patterns of a Mokume Gane creation, these pieces offer more than just aesthetic appeal; they are a celebration of craftsmanship and cultural heritage. As you explore the possibilities, remember that the perfect piece is one that resonates with your personal style and tells a story as unique as your own. Embrace the artistry and legacy of these techniques, and discover a piece that speaks to both your individuality and your connection to the timeless traditions of metalworking.

When it comes to wedding bands, many men are seeking new options that stand out from the usual simple gold or platinum rings. Today’s grooms want something that reflects and allows them to express their personal style and interests. We want to introduce you to a "new" old art form called Mokume Gane. A niche that is gaining popularity, offering both an earthy aesthetic and environmental significance.

The Rise of Mokume Wedding Bands

The trend towards alternative men's wedding bands is growing, as more individuals desire a ring that tells their unique story and reflects their ideas and interests. Traditional metals such as gold and platinum possess a timeless charm, and using these precious materials to blend their classic qualities with vibrant colors and intriguing patterns offers an enhanced appeal. Mixing metals to create visually striking color palettes, and bringing old world skills and techniques to the modern age.

Artisan Craftsmanship: Mokume Gane

One of the most fascinating alternatives in the realm of unique wedding bands is Mokume Gane, a Japanese metalworking technique that produces a wood grain pattern. The term "Mokume Gane" translates to "wood grain metal," and its' intricate designs are achieved by layering and bonding different colored metals. This process creates a one-of-a-kind pattern that can be customized and offers an entire world of possibilities for design.

The Process of Mokume Gane

Crafting a Mokume Gane ring is a detailed, time-intensive process that demands both precision and skill. The metals— in our studio we use combinations of high karat golds, palladium and silver - are fused under high pressure and temperature. The bonded metals are then painstakingly manipulated to reveal the layers, resulting in a mesmerizing pattern. Each piece is as unique as a fingerprint, making it a true testament to craftsmanship.

Customization: Crafting a Personal Narrative

Custom wedding rings offer the opportunity to incorporate elements that hold personal significance. This ring, for example, was a custom ordered ring, where the pattern has been specifically designed to resemble a map of a hiking trail, a location of great sentimental importance to the couple. When so many elements - the metal combinations, the patterns, the shape of the band itself - are able to be personalized, it's possible to create truly one of a kind pieces that represent both the individual and the bond shared with a partner.

Incorporating Gemstones

While gemstones are traditionally associated with women’s rings, they are becoming increasingly popular in men's wedding bands as well. Unconventional choices like black diamonds, multicolor sapphires, diamond crystals, and more, can add a touch of color and intrigue. These stones can be set into the band or used as an accent to create a striking contrast with the metal.

Shown here are two different rings made in Arn's Guri Bori pattern, one with small diamonds that have been set flush into the ring and placed organically around the band for just a hint of sparkle. The other has a smoky gray raw diamond crystal set in his Mesa style, designed to look like the stone is in the process of emerging from the earth.

Ethical and Sustainable Choices

In today’s conscientious world, many couples are opting for wedding bands that align with their ethical and environmental values. Choosing rings made from recycled metals and other sustainably sourced materials is a way to honor those commitments.

Recycled Metals

Using recycled metals lowers the demand for newly mined materials and are an excellent option for eco-conscious consumers. These metals are refined to the same purity as newly mined metals, ensuring that the quality of the ring is uncompromised.

Fair Trade and Conflict-Free Diamonds

For those incorporating diamonds into their wedding bands, selecting fair trade and conflict-free stones is paramount. This ensures that the gemstones are sourced responsibly without exploitation or environmental harm. We also encourage the use of stones from heirloom pieces, in addition to being a great sustainable choice, using heirloom stones can add and extra sentimental touch.

Embracing Individuality in Wedding Bands

The world of men's wedding bands is evolving, offering a wealth of unique alternatives to traditional rings. With the elements of innovative materials, artisan craftsmanship like Mokume Gane, and personalized customization, there is a perfect option for every groom. As you begin this journey, consider what resonates with your personal style and values, and choose a ring that not only signifies your commitment but also tells your story.

Remember that the best choice is one that aligns with your personality, lifestyle, and values, creating a lasting symbol of your partnership.

Sue recently created this collection of knitted wire forms for the Rosewood Sand Hill Hotel. Inspired by Sue's signature visual aesthetic and botanical shapes and forms.  Sue worked with a team from Sweeney Co. Art directed by award-winning interior architect and designer Nicole Hollis, to create these captivating one of a kind sculptural fiber pieces.